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Black Tie
Black tie is a dress code for semi-formal evening events. For a man, black tie stipulates a dinner jacket (tuxedo in Canada and the U.S.). Currently, black tie is worn to many types of social functions; a woman’s corresponding evening dress ranges from a conservative cocktail dress to the long evening gown determined per current fashion, local custom, and the occasion’s time.
The typical black-tie jacket is single-breasted, ventless, and black or midnight-blue, usually wool or a wool-mohair blend. Double breasted models are less common but perfectly acceptable. The lapels may be faced with silk in either a grosgrain or a satin weave. Traditionally there are two lapel options, the shawl collar, derived from the smoking jacket, and the peak lapel, from the tailcoat. The former is the older, while the latter is considered the more formal.[1] Both styles can be single- or double-breasted. A third lapel style, the notched lapel, has only recently gained popularity, and has been accepted by some as “a legitimate … less formal alternative”[2], although, despite some precedent, it is disdained by purists for its lounge suit derivation. In France, and elsewhere, the jacket is called le smoking, and the shawl-collared version is le smoking Deauville, while the peaked-lapel version is le smoking Capri.
The traditional single-breasted jacket has a one-button closure. Two-button variants are sometimes seen, but jackets incorporating more buttons are fashion fads. (Also see: smoking jacket)
chest”>http://www.himfr.com/buy-chest_size/”>chest sizeBlack was known to take on a green hue in early artificial lights, hence midnight blue was introduced by the Prince of Wales, and remains the only acceptable alternative colour.
The white dinner jacket is often worn in warm climates. It is usually ivory in colour rather than pure white, and does not have silk-faced lapels. The white dinner jacket is worn with the usual black trousers of black tie. The American colour exceptions are its use in the high-school “prom”, and concert conductors, i.e., the Last Night. In the U.S. and Canada a white dinner jacket is traditionally worn only from Memorial Day in the spring to Labor Day. (This rule applies also to white summer clothes, including shoes and suits.) In the UK, the traditional rule of thumb is that white dinner jackets are never worn, even on the hottest day of summer, but are reserved for wear abroad.[3]
It is poor manners for a man to remove his jacket during a black-tie social event, but when hot weather and humidity dictate, the ranking man (of the royal family, the guest of honour) may give men permission by noticeably taking off his jacket. In anticipated hot weather Red Sea rig is specified in the invitation, although this dress is esoteric in civilian circles, and is particular to certain communities.
The waist is dressed in either a waistcoat (vest) or a cummerbund when wearing a single-breasted coat. The waistcoat should be low-cut; traditional models (three-button if single-breasted) can be backless, and have shawl lapels. The cummerbund (derived from military dress uniform in British India) is worn with its pleats facing up, and is of the same cloth as the bow tie and lapels. White waistcoats in the style of white tie were traditionally worn with stiff shirts for the most formal black-tie ensemble possible. [4]
A cummerbund is never worn with a double breasted jacket, and a waistcoat now very rarely. Since this style of jacket is never unbuttoned, the waist of the trousers is never exposed, and therefore does not need to be covered[5], though before the war an edge of waistcoat was often shown between the jacket and shirt.
Before World War II, stiff shirts with separate wing collars abounded, similar to White Tie. However, such shirts are no longer commonly available and an imitation of this type, a semi-stiff shirt with an attached wing collar, has become very common (particularly in the US). Traditionalists, however, reject the use of these new attached wing collars and argue that a shirt with a classic fold-down collar (as is found on a “normal” shirt) has become de rigeur.[6] Many traditional shirt makers such as Turnbull & Asser refuse to sell shirts with an attached wing collar.
The original and most formal version of the dress shirt fastens with matching shirt studs and cuff links. One can also wear a buttoned shirt with either a fly-front placket; if the buttons are visible (very informal) they should be mother-of-pearl. Soft shirts have French cuffs; stiff shirts (as in white tie) have single cuffs.
Handkerchief and Boutonniere: A white handkerchief in linen (silk and cotton are modern alternatives) and/or a boutonniere (a blue cornflower, red or white carnation, or a rosebud.) may be worn on the coat.
Outerwear: In cold weather a Chesterfield or solid-coloured overcoat, grey gloves, and a white silk scarf are worn. Traditionally, an Inverness coat was also popular.
Hat: The standard hat is a black (or midnight blue) homburg; in summer, a straw boater is optional. Top hats may only be worn with white tie and morning dress.
Timepiece: If worn, a wristwatch should be slender, plain, and elegant; alternatively, a pocket watch may be worn on the waistcoat. Traditionally, however, visible timepieces are not worn with formal evening dress, because timekeeping is not considered a priority.
Decorations and orders: Military, civil, and organisational decorations usually worn only to formal events of State or other sovereign organisation. Miniature orders and awards are typically worn on the left breast or left lapel of the jacket, and neck badges, breast stars, and sashes are worn according to country-specific or organisational regulations.
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